A DAY IN NAGGAR : My Travel Tale Of The Ancient Kullu Village

View of the Naggar village

There is something infectious about this quaint little hill town. And there is definitely something more therapeutic in its green environs. However, it took me thirty long years to relive the imprinting memories of the place that had gripped my senses with its captivating aura then.

As part of my yearly sojourn in the hills, Naggar was on top of my small itinerary this time, of course, next after a short but fulfilling visit to the acclaimed Kullu Dushera.

We started just before the afternoon sun descended over the valley giving a temporary relief from the wintry chill that had set in just a few days ago.  A nearly twenty kilometer not so  smooth ride from Kullu towards Naggar on the left bank bore testimony to the recent floods that had devoured the original dimensions of the road at a stretch and clearly unsettled the picturesque surroundings. The reminiscent of the climatic chaos had indeed tales to tell of the nature’s fury.  Nevertheless, an impending journey, a cache of explicit childhood impressions and a subtle yet bobbling verve craved in as we hastily exited our comfortable cab to walk the meandering two kilometer steep distance uphill. A dose of fresh oxygen invaded our set of lungs before being greeted by the dying autumn sun that lent a golden hue to the landscape.

   

The corridor of the Naggar Castle

                                                                                       Perched high on a crag at an altitude of 1800 meters overlooking the Beas River, and once the seat of erstwhile kings & rulers of the Kullu – Manali region, Naggar was an instant recipe for soul rejuvenation in our escapade from the uninspiring plains. Although, I always remembered Naggar more for visiting the Roerich art gallery as an eleven year old adolescent with my travel enthusiast father, the unusually small castle resting on the edge of a cliff like formation certainly beckons you to pay a visit before you move ahead. This architecturally unique castle built out of only stones and wood in the local ‘kathkhooni’ technique catches the eye first and foremost. It is popular with the filmmakers as well as the excited bunch of tourists for its camera friendly location more than its historical past. When I last visited, it possessed that quintessential primeval feel in its appearance, which was missing post the castle’s facelift. The antiquated structure and its intricate carvings in wood now boast of a bright brown finish besides its well preserved heritage.

Dating back to the sixteenth century, it was not only the highest seat of this regional kingdom but also served the colonial administration before finally being thrown open to the public as a hotel and cafeteria In the seventies.  And as we stepped in, a two minute read on the information board refreshed its esteemed history for us, besides a few additions which have actually not hampered much with its originality. A walk on the corridor provides some of the most mesmerizing views of the valley with the snowy peaks of Deotiba, Gyenghang and Chandraghani on one side and the town on the other side.  A cup of hot tea eased the chill around, while we quietly absorbed the calm vibes in the lap of serenity before heading for that bit of exploration into this once very small village that has developed traces of urbanization, courtesy the booming tourism sector.

As far as I could recall, the uneven one kilometer narrow passage to the Roerich art gallery from the Naggar castle was a mystical sight abound with the healing deodars that restricted the sun’s relaxing rays and housed only an insignificant chunk of civilization. However, several guest houses, home stays and eateries now welcome you on both sides of the narrow road.

Mr. Mastram and his Pizzeria Under Under The Parachute

I can’t help but mention one such eatery with a very distinctive identity that is only a few meters away from the castle.  A farmer turned small businessman from the Aani tehsil, Mr Mastram’s ‘Pizzeria under the Parachute’ will catch your eye not just for its unusual  name and mouth watering menu but also for the kind suggestion inscribed on its exterior wall to mount a few  stairs to relish his handmade delicacy on the roof top. So we immediately decided to put to rest our hunger pangs and moved in, placing our order for the most authentic one.  It was interesting to watch him bake the pizza in his unique clay oven amid the lush apple plantations. As the pizza rose to perfection, Mr. Mastram in his peculiar small town congenial demeanor, narrated intriguing tales of the entire episode behind naming his pizzeria.

I must admit he is a master of his art and our hearty meal of the day was good enough to lift our spirits before we bid goodbye to Mr. Mastram with many more recommendations for his pizzeria with a view.

The track leading to the Roerich art gallery further widens into a predictable mix of the old and the new, a peep into the era gone by and the inevitable requisites of the contemporary world. The left side offers a splendid view of the ancient Tripura Sundari temple built also in wood and stone with a conical shikhara atop the double slanted roofs.  A film shoot was in progress in the temple premises which wasn’t a rare sight in this region. However, we deliberately avoided paying a visit to this magnificent piece of architecture and some of the other noted temples in the vicinity, perhaps we were keener to soak in the beauty of colors on canvas at the art gallery. But as we hastened our footsteps towards the much awaited destination of the day, a melodious sound of the Accordion (a musical instrument used in the west) gently infiltrated our ears and left us spellbound owing to its striking resonance in the atmosphere. The lively musical piece tugged us straight to its place of origin, the Roerich’s Himalayan Folk and Tribal Art Museum & open theatre, conveniently postponing our visit to the Roerich’s enchanting abode for some time.

Russian child artists performing at ‘Urusvati’- Himalayan Folk & Tribal Art Museum

Approaching the small gathering of this cultural exchange program, we witnessed acrobatically unique dance and song performances one after the other.  The troop of dancers from Russia including children of all ages tapped their feet in harmony on traditional soviet music in some of the most vibrant outfits and expressions. It was indeed a perfect fairy tale setting in that dense thicket with all the attributes for our delectation. Nearly an hour into this extravaganza and we were all smiles for our surprise musical therapy before moving to the art gallery. Though, two or three more galleries have come up in the area, the Roerich’s remains the most visited so far.

A cascade of treasured memories erupted as I walked on the path through the well maintained gardens leading to the double story wooden house that overlooks the valley. Once the estate of actress Devika Rani and her famed painter husband Svetsolav Roerich, the son of Nicholas Roerich, it had been converted into International Roerich Memorial Trust which now runs the gallery.

Paintings at the gallery

 A glance at his exquisite collection of artwork done in his distinct style of painting the landscapes generally in hues of blue is enough evidence to decipher, why the famous Russian artist Nicholas Roerich immensely loved the place to have left his native country and settled here in the early  20th century. And assuming that the place would not have been so populated as today, the hills must have been more endearing and inspiring for an artist like him.

Exterior view of the gallery

The place has a lot to offer for an inquisitive adventure enthusiast like me. But the Naggar of my childhood memories isn’t the same anymore. Despite the piece of peace it still exudes, unfortunately though, the place has seen substantial growth over the past few years. The village has more or less evolved into a small town competing with the bigger tourist destinations around, struggling simultaneously to keep its old flavor intact in the time of fierce commercialization. Numerous big and small hotels and home stays have mushroomed alongside the modern residential mansions, taking away the charm of the calm village life that once existed here. The obscure dhabas and tea stalls have now been replaced by new age eateries and bakeries that aim to tickle the taste buds of the international tourist.                                                                                                                                                                       

A modern mansion in Naggar

My visit to Naggar had pleasantly intensified my appetite for travel as well as strengthened my connect with the tranquilizing hills. Nonetheless, we departed with a hope to see this place not lose its raw appeal entirely in the days to come.